Free run press (the dirt on wine — unfiltered!)

Introduction · Vini Italiani, mostly · Spain, again · Worth every penny — and more

November — December 2008

As your monitor displays this little exposition of "content" it's probably early November and there'll either be celebration or despair and gnashing of teeth, depending upon your preference for the elephant or donkey brand of politics. In either case, there's lots of work to be done, and when the day is done, you'll still need to grace your table with a splendid beverage.

And on that score, nothing has changed. Good wine is still good wine, a dollar is still a dollar (OK, more or less) and more bang for the buck is still better than less. Enough said. Here's what's new to drink.

Vini Italiani, mostly.

Giocato Pinot Grigio (PCC Exclusive) ($11.50)
That this is actually Slovenian wine is merely a matter of a line drawn on a map. Realized by the considerable skills of Edi Simcic, this is as lovely a bottle of 'grigio as you're likely to find. Bright, lively aromas and flavors of ripe mandarin and pear are accented with notes of lemon blossom and an appealing, alluring note of citrus rind. Tangy acidity provides great balance and lends to a wine that has the purity and freshness of a fine spring day.

Terraecaldae Chianti (PCC Exclusive) ($12.50)
In a word, Chianti! From it's alluring, ripe cherry and spice-infused aromas, to a luscious mouthful of bing and black cherries woven with wild herbs and minerals, this wine offers pure Tuscan soul, by the glass. Sangiovese means, "blood of Jove." Here's a delicious opportunity to taste why!

Destafanis Dolcetto d'Alba "Bricco Galluccio" ($14)
The steeply sloped "Bricco Galluccio" vineyard delivers dazzlingly fresh fruit, especially in 2006. A concentration of ripe cherries and raspberries abounds, practically exploding on the tongue. This is amazingly fresh, complex Dolcetto, with notes of violet offering a pretty, delicate perfume, while touches of spices and pepper follow on the finish. A serious interpretation of Piedmont's "little sweet one," this is a superb value — and a joy to drink. (North Berkeley Imports).

Spain, again.

Roquevale Terras de Xisto Tinto ($11)
This lively, luscious red from Portugal's Alentejo region is compelling evidence that the renaissance in Iberian wine extends to the entire peninsula. Made primarily of aragonez (identical to tempranillo), it delivers bright, pure aromas and flavors of boysenberries, plums and cherries, built on a sturdy, well-balanced framework of generous fruit, firm acidity and ample tannins. This wine makes "everyday" a reason to celebrate!

San Isidro Cepas del Zorro Dos Años Bullas ($11)
The Bullas DO, located in the Murcia region of Southeast Spain, has been producing wine for millennia, and has experienced a revolution in quality in recent years. Made of monastrell, this fetching red greets the nose with aromas of black cherries, red fruits and exotic spice, then delivers a reprise of those fruits, with added notes of currants and minerals in an easy-to-drink, well-balanced glass (or three) of wine.

Monte de Capela Adega de Pias ($12)
The Alentejo region produces some of Portugal's most richly expressive wines, owing to its hot summers. This vervey vinho, a 50-50 blend of aragonez (tempranillo) and trincadeira leaps from the glass, offering, generous bright cherry and currant fruit accented with spicy notes suggestive of bay leaf and cumin. The well-balanced fruit dances on the palate with a Beaujolais — like freshness, providing loads of easy-going pleasure.

Viña Ijalba Genolí Blanco Rioja ($14)
This is white wine as it should be: perfectly ripened grapes singing the song of the dirt from whence they sprang. Lovely citrus-tinged melon flavors provide the foundation, while notes of grape skin and wild fennel add accents. Luscious, almost unctuous in the mouth while showing bright acidity and elegant focus, this wine is delicious as a solo player, but shines in an ensemble setting, playing well with a wide range of foods.

Viña Ijalba Livor Rioja ($14)
Tempranillo takes varietal credit here but, as with any good wine, terroir should get equal billing. Fruit-wise, it's tempranillo in spades: bright, pure cherry and dried cherry fruit with pepper and spice, but it's threads of Rioja woven into that texture of luscious fruit that make it truly sing.

Lopez Cristobal Tinto Roble Ribera del Duero ($18.50)
"Big, chewy, impressive ..." Made primarily of tinta del pais (tempranillo's Duero incarnation), this wine shows the dark cherry face of that grape, while the five percent of cabernet in the blend lends a brooding seam of deep purple fruit. Notes of spice and cigar box round out a complex, profoundly textured, thoroughly pleasurable bottle of vino.

Viña Ijalba Crianza Rioja ($22.50)
This is as rioja as it gets. Cherries, dried cherries and pepper tell the tale of tempranillo, with classic notes of dusty minerals providing an unmistakable accent. There's plenty of sturdy substance to make a robust statement here, but it's not heavy-handed. Ample fruit, tannins and firm acidity all share the stage in a tasty ensemble effort.

Worth every penny — and more:

Rayun Syrah Rapel Valley (biodynamically grown) ($9.50)
This tank-fermented Syrah offers penetrating flavors with an invigorating freshness as if the grapes were picked yesterday. Touches of tar and leather blend with black fruits on the sultry, almost sauvage nose; smoky blackberries and juicy black cherries linger on the languorous finish. The heart of a "new world" wine with the soul of the "old world" — and a great deal to boot. (NBI)

Cavatappi Sangiovese ($12.50)
Big, juicy cherry and berry fruit! Think of this as an Italian immigrant living in Washington. Juicy and ripe, it speaks the Columbia Valley lingo flawlessly, with its luscious cherry and berry fruit backed up by that inimitable note of gravelly minerals and brush. But then, there's that accent, that lively have-another-glass sort of liveliness that keeps you at the table for another helping and another bottle.

Schloss Schonborn Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett ($21)
I think of wines like this as being rather like ballet dancers. It offers the sweetness of ripe, honeyed fruit with the delicate grace of an unfolding flower — supported by a racy undercurrent of mineral and acidity. A seeming paradox, a lovely exposition of counterpoint, harmony and balance, and a relative bargain, given the outstanding quality.

Saintsbury "Garnet" Pinot Noir ($22)
Here's proof that bigger isn't always better — and that thoroughly delicious pinot noir doesn't have to be exorbitantly priced. Garnet is produced from pinot noir grown in the Carneros district, with the aim of producing a refreshing, early-drinking style of pinot. Mission accomplished, with lively cherry and raspberry fruit accented with a judicious kiss of French oak. Perfect for holiday fare, fresh, grilled salmon, duck, mushroom risotto or full-bodied cheeses.

Domaine Pierre Noire "Deux" ($22)
Excuse me if I'm somewhat immoderate in my praise for both this wine and its producers. There are a handful of wineries in the state who truly "get it" — and Domaine Pierre Noire (soon to be Domaine Pouillon due to a trademark conflict with a California winery) is on that short list. This lovely elixir exhibits old world sensibilities of grace, equilibrium and elegance with its sleek exposition of ripe pear and nectarine fruit, highlighted with notes of fruit blossoms and a trace of dusty minerals. Bright acidity adds verve, and balances the ample fruit.